The city they call "up-and-coming," is already there in my opinion. I immediately felt the rush of Berlin's energetic atmosphere and the gentle pride of the city's community peeking up. As a country tainted with such tumultuous history, it has been difficult for national pride to rise again. Because besides having the strongest economy in the European Union, Germany has so much to be proud of. But speaking of such history, Berlin has done an excellent job of remembering (and remembering with distaste) certain facets of their past. For example, architect Peter Eisenman's ambiguous Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe consists of nearly 3,000 upright slabs of concrete, varying in size and arranged in labryinth-like grid. When the memorial was unveiled in 2005, it caused quite the controversy because people wanted to know what it symbolized or what the message was behind Eisenman's construction. But the architect refused to give more information, leading me to believe his memorial is that of the subjective sort. While walking through the hilly grid of blank, gray concrete slabs, I felt oddly alone. Even though I heard voices around me and saw other wanderers every so often, I couldn't help but get shivers down my spine. It was as if I could feel the cold concrete against the nape of my neck. At least for me, the overall effect of the memorial was eerie and mysterious, yet hopeful.
The other quite hidden "attraction," if you can call it that, is the recently unveiled spot of Hitler's bunker, where the dictator spent his last days in hiding before eventually committing suicide. The spot was only recently marked with a very small and neutral sign in 2006 because the government did not want to mark up any spot where neo-Nazis could set up camp. Today, the location of Hitler's old resting spot is a parking lot where many neighborhood dogs are walked and (to avoid crude language) not cleaned up after. So basically the site of the bunker is now (not avoiding crude language) consistently shit on.
But on to the much more prevalent and cheerful moments in Berlin! Although our hostel smelt a bit damp at times, it was located in the central and lively neighborhood of Mitte. From Mitte, my friends and I could walk to the Gendarmenmarkt, or the square housing two lookalike cathedrals built in the 18th century for the religious communities at the time. The square was especially beautiful at night when the cathedrals are lit up and the square is completely deserted.
From there we could continue towards Museuminsel, or Museum Island, which happened to be next to an adorable outdoor market. After visiting every museum we could in Vienna and Prague, we decided to take a break in Berlin and walk around the different neighborhoods. So although I didn't make it to the National Museum, I do think I got my dose of culture just visiting the Berlin Wall.
I was a bit disappointed at all there was left of the Berlin Wall when our tour guide pointed it out next to Checkpoint Charlie. It looked ratty and was fenced in (yes, a fence protecting a wall). But then I discovered the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Berlin Wall preserved as a memorial in its original location, and completely covered in art. The city commissioned artists from all over the world to paint over the wall, turning the dark symbol into a relic of liberty. From portraits of Motown kings to poems of peace, each painting expresses the city's long fight for freedom. Walking down that wall and running my hand across its smooth surface, it is one of the few times I could really feel the weight of so much history upon me. I wondered how many people had stood before that very spot and contemplated how to get on the other side. And I couldn't believe that it was only 21 years ago that it was finally torn down and the German people were able to build their country again. Needless to say, it was the kind of experience you can't get from textbooks. Sometimes you just have to be there.
First lunch in Berlin: Bratworst and french fries, finished off with an orange Fanta.
PRATER
After missing our stop on the train in Berlin, we were forced to take the S-Bahn 20 minutes back into the city. It may have seemed like a disaster at the time, but a nice girl sitting next to me overheard our conversation and recommended some fun areas and restaurants to try out while in Berlin. Both her suggestions led us to our best experiences in Berlin. First to Prater (below), a beer garden where we had the best meal of our trip, and then to Kreuzberg, the young and hip shopping area where we could've spent days wandering.
Delicious food...and delicious beers.
First glimpse of the Brandenburg Gate!
The Hotel Adlon. Famous for its celebrity clients and even more famous for being the hotel where Michael Jackson hung his baby out the window.
The Reichstag Building
Inside the Reichstag...
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (or the Holocaust Memorial)
Hitler's bunker
On Museum Island
Funny moment in Berlin:
Anne noticed while walking around one day that Germans don't smoke as much as other Europeans. After being in Paris, then of course Vienna and Prague, we were almost convinced that all Europeans smoked profusely. But alas, Courtney made the ever astute comment:
"Maybe Germans prefer to die by sausage."
Walking around in Kreuzberg
Street Art in Kreuzberg
Around the city at night...
The Gendarmenmarkt
Berlin Wall
Favorite poem on the Wall
New Yorkers! I'm not sure why Cathy isn't as excited.
I promise I didn't write my name all over the Berlin Wall! But somebody else did so I thought I'd take advantage
All of us acting a bit silly in front of the Brandenburg Gate all lit up
A cute little store in Kreuzberg...
Art Gallery, Kreuzberg
Some store we passed by had been open for over a year--free beer for everyone! Only in Berlin.
Small shop, Kreuzberg
Taking the U-Bahn! As well as the metros in Vienna and Prague, Berlin's metro works on an honors system. So basically we decided if they weren't going to force us to buy tickets (like in New York or Paris), they really aren't necessary. Be warned! Although this scheme might have worked for us in Vienna and Prague, we did get caught on the S-Bahn. The good thing is, our ticket police didn't know much English and their system of fining culprits was completely confusing (not to mention all in German). From the hand gesture-communication we were relying on, I don't think they expected us to actually understand where we pay, let alone pay at all. Let's just hope the ticket police don't find me at 567 Cantrel Perk West (that's what my policemen wrote down when I dictated him my address...I neglected to correct him). Woops!
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp
Since we were in Berlin for six days, we thought it necessary to visit this concentration camp nearby. It obviously wasn't a fun experience, but I think if you're in Berlin, it's something you should just do. Walking around the former camp, I felt goosebumps. The camp was gated in with electric fencing and complete with a gas chamber and execution house. I don't think I need to say more to explain the horrors this place has seen.
On our last day in Berlin, my friends and I decided to split up. One of my friends wanted to go back to the Berlin Wall, another wanted to lounge in a cafe and catch up on homework (I know, incredibly lame) and me, I headed to the Berggruen Museum famous for its collection of Picasso's and Leger's. Across the street I saw this building below. I had no idea what it was at the time, but it was absolutely stunning. I later learned it is the Schloss Charlottenburg Palace. Since my time in Europe, this is the second occasion that I've accidentally stumbled upon a palace. Not too bad!
Picasso poster outside the Berggruen
Smartest coffee in Berlin...
